The information and methods described herein are provided “AS-IS” WITHOUT WARRANTY OF ANY KIND, EITHER EXPRESSED OR IMPLIED. Use the concepts, examples and information at your own risk. There may be errors and inaccuracies, that could be damaging to your devices. Proceed with caution, and although it is highly unlikely that accidents will happen because of following advice or procedures described in this document, the author does not take any responsibility for any damage claimed to be caused by doing so.
This assembly guide assumes some basic soldering skills on the part of the reader. It is a step-by-step explanation of how to properly assemble the LSDJ-MC2+.
Note: This kit is not suited for DIY beginners. While designed to be easy to assemble, it will require prior experience assembling DIY kits.
The underlying idea is to start with the thinnest components first (those with the lowest “elevation” on the PCB) and move toward the thickest/tallest components.
All pictures can be clicked for larger versions.
The first thing to do is familiarizing yourself with the PCB, show here in HASL finish. Then we can start the assembly:
First, let’s solder the smallest part: the 1N4148 diode D2. This part has polarity: The black band on the part must be aligned with the white band on the silkscreen.
Also at this step, we add the resistors: R1, R2, R3, R4, R5, R6, R7, R8. These components do not have polarity (they can be soldered in any orientation), however the designated values must be respected:
- 220Ω is color-coded as Red, Red, Brown, Gold
- 470Ω is color-coded as Yellow, Violet, Brown, Gold
- 1kΩ is color-coded as Brown, Black, Red, Gold
This online calculator can help in case of doubt.
Note: this assembly guide uses 1kΩ resistors for R1 through R5, but these can be replaced with the value of your choice for e.g. brigther LEDs.
Next, we add the larger diode D1, which also has polarity: align the white band on the diode with the white band on the silkscreen, but it will NOT be soldered yet. Just insert it and leave it there for now.
Next, solder the quartz: Q1. This part doesn’t have polarity.
Here, we add the socket for IC3 (the PIC). These sockets typically have a visible notch on one side that should be matched with the notch on the silkscreen.
Moving on, we solder the unsocketed ICs: IC1 and OK1. These parts have polarity: typically a notch that must be aligned with the notch on the silkscreen, or a dot (marking pin 1) which is also to be put on next to the notch on the silkscreen.
Note: if you plan on making use of the mounting hole located under OK1, it will probably be easier if it is socket-mounted.
Next up are the capacitors C1, C3, C4, C5 (C2 does not exist on the PCB). These parts aren’t polarized either. Ceramic capacitor values are specified using a 3-digit code. Fortunately, the design uses only 3 different values:
- 220 (sometimes just “22”), for 22pF caps C3, C4
- 103, for 10nF cap C5
- 104, for 100nF cap C1
Up next are the five LEDs, LED1, LED2, LED3, LED4, LED5. These devices are polarized. They normally have a flat side and/or a shorter leg that must be aligned with the flat side drawn on the PCB silkscreen.
This step shows the tactile switches being mounted. Due to their design, it’s impossible to insert them in the wrong orientation.
In this step we’ll solder the DC jack J1, as well as the diode D1. Because of the very close proximity of both these parts, some care must be taken to ensure a convenient mount. Once the jack is mounted, D1 can be positionned snug and finally soldered.
Here we add the voltage regulator IC2. This device is polarized, the tab must be aligned with the white tab on the silkscreen.
As can be seen on this picture, the diode D1 is a very tight fit between the DC jack and this regulator:
The device is now almost ready. This step shows the addition of the DIN-5 input plug X2 (X1 does not exist on the PCB).
It is now time to insert the PIC IC3 in its socket and this completes the assembly of LSDJ-MC2+!
The only thing left to do now is to wire the Game Link cable to either the GB1 and/or GB2 PCB pads (they output the same signals), with:
- PCB Pin 1 connected to Game Link Pin 6
- PCB Pin 2 connected to Game Link Pin 3
- PCB Pin 3 connected to Game Link Pin 5