The information and methods described herein are provided “AS-IS” WITHOUT WARRANTY OF ANY KIND, EITHER EXPRESSED OR IMPLIED. Use the concepts, examples and information at your own risk. There may be errors and inaccuracies, that could be damaging to your devices. Proceed with caution, and although it is highly unlikely that accidents will happen because of following advice or procedures described in this document, the author does not take any responsibility for any damage claimed to be caused by doing so.
This assembly guide assumes some basic soldering skills on the part of the reader. It is a step-by-step explanation of how to properly assemble the JAMMA SuperGun Adapter.
Note: This kit is not suited for DIY beginners. While designed to be easy to assemble, it will require prior experience assembling DIY kits.
This guide shows the complete PCB with all options assembled (except for the TEST switch), depending on your choices (see here) you will skip some parts in this procedure.
The underlying idea is to start with the thinnest components first (those with the lowest “elevation” on the PCB) and move toward the thickest/tallest components.
All pictures can be clicked for larger versions.
Note: This assembly guide uses pictures from a PCB version that has capacitor C18. The current version omits this capacitor, but the assembly is otherwise stricly identical.
The first thing to do is familiarizing yourself with the PCB, show here in HASL finish. Then we can start the assembly:
First, we start with the SMD: IC1. The first pin is identified with a dot on the plastic casing that must be aligned with the corresponding dot on the silkscreen.
Next, let’s solder the smallest through-hole parts, starting with the diode D1. This part has polarity: The black band on the part must be aligned with the white band on the silkscreen.
We then add all the flat-mounted resistors:i R4, R5, R6, R7, R8, R9, R10, R11, R13, R15, R16, R18, R19, R20, R21, R22, R23, R24, R25, R26, R29, R30, R32, R33, R34. These components do not have polarity (they can be soldered in any orientation).
Next, solder the quartz: Q1, Q2. These parts don’t have polarity.
Here, we add PDIP ICs IC2, IC3, IC4, IC5. These parts have a visible notch on one side that must be matched with the notch painted on the silkscreen. All the ICs that are mounted in the same direction (horizontally or vertically) share the same polarity orientation, which helps visually checking the correctness of their insertion on the PCB.
Note: I recommend not mounting these parts in sockets: they carry HF signals, for best signal integrity it is advised to solder them directly on the PCB.
Moving on, we solder the 2.5mm 100nF capacitors C4, C5, C6, C7, C9, C10, C14, C15, C19, C20, C24. These part do not have polarity.
Next up are the remaining ceramic capacitors C1, C2, C3, C12, C13, C16. These parts aren’t polarized either. Ceramic capacitor values are typically specified using a 3-digit code.
Here we add the tactile switch S1, as well as the 3-pin male header DEF.
It is now time to insert the vertically-mounted resistors: R12, R14, R17, R27, R28, R31, R35, R36, R37, R38, R39, R40, R41.
Note: While these parts don’t have polarity, make sure to insert them as suggested by the silkscreen (the body standing on top of the painted circle) as this is the only layout that guarantees a good fit.
In this step we’ll solder the optional inductor L1 (this part is not polarized) and the electrolytic capacitors C8, C11, C17, C21, C22, C23, C25, C26. These parts have polarity: the positive pin is marked by a + on the PCB. The parts typically show their negative pin with a band on the casing, this band must be placed opposite of the +.
The PCB features only two possible orientations for all these parts: the negative band is either on the right or towards the bottom (see picture), which makes visually checking insertion correctness easier.
Here we add the LEDs LED1, LED2, LED3 and the switches PWR_SW, CREDIT_SW. The LEDs are polarized, they have a shorter pin (and often a tab on the same side) that must be aligned with the tab painted on the silkscreen.
This step shows the addition of the ATX power connector, as well as the COMP and SVID output connectors.
Note: The ATX connector is polarized! It has a polarity marker on one of its short sides that is painted on the silkscreen, and a locking tab on one of its long sides that is also painted on the silkscreen. Make absolutely sure it is properly oriented. Misorientation of this connector would have catastrophic consequences.
Next, we add the Wago connectors X1, X2, X3. They must be mounted with the wire holes facing toward the center of the PCB (see picture).
It is now time to add the SCART connector PERITEL, the two transformers TR1, TR2 (they aren’t polarized), and finally the voltage regulator V1
The voltage regulator is polarized. The TSN 1-2450 has a dot marking pin 1, which must be matched with the dot painted on the PCB. The LM7905 has a metal tab that must be matched with the thick white tab painted on the silkscreen.
We’re almost done: let’s add the audio switch AUDIO_SW, which isn’t polarized, and the RGB pots R1, R2, R3. The position of the audio switch lever as shown on the picture will enable operation in mono mode (lever toward the “MO” marking on PCB).
This is also the time to add the test switch TEST_SW if you want.
Finally, we add the dual stacked D-Sub connector P1, P2, the stacked RCA audio output connector A_OUT, we set the jumper on DEF (this jumper is necessary for device operation: it is shown here set for NTSC power on), and this completes the assembly of the device! All that’s left to do now is to wire the JAMMA harness to the Wago connectors, as explained here.
Note: Before powering up the device for the first time, use a continuity tester to make sure there is no short between any of the voltage rails and ground. The easiest place to do this is at X3: ensure no short between pin 1 and in order: pin 3, pin 5, pin 6.